How to tile a shower

The first step is to put up a sturdy cement board backer. I like to use Hardibacker. Once the Hardibacker is up it is time to get to the tiling. This is the fun part.

1. Do not use Mastic, use a thinset and stay away from the premixed stuff.

2. You want to dampen the cement board prior to troweling thinset on. If you do not, the cement board will draw the moisture out of the thinset too quickly, making for a brittle set that is susceptible to cracking.

3. Pick out the right trowel for your thinset and tile size, also pay attention to spacing recommendations and use the right spacers. I recommend 1/8' or less spacing so that you can use unsanded grout (easier to seal).

4. Remember you are not going to grout at the corners, you are going to caulk so try to maintain an even spacing.

Make sure you use tiles made for walls and follow the directions on the bag of thinset as to what type of trowel you will need.

You want to measure up from the bottom of the backerboard the height of a tile minus ½'. This will give you a ½' overlap over the tile lip on your shower pan. Mark this with a sharpie and using a level transfer the mark across the shower stall.

Trowel on some thinset and spread it with a notched trowel. Then set the tile into it by twisting slightly while pushing into the thinset. Remove the tile to make sure you have good coverage on the back. Reinstall and keep setting tiles using spacers in between. Let the bottom row set up for 24 hours.

After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure setting each row of tile on top of the last row of tile. Continue until you reach the top of the shower stall. Here is the procedure again:

1. Measure up from top of the last row. Mark line with a level as guide for next row.

2. Spread thinset between last row of tile and marked line with v-notched trowel.

3. Set tile into thinset using spacers all around.

4. Repeat for next row up.