Tips for building a planter box
If you are tired of the same old plant in the same old spot, then it is time to build some new planter boxes. Building a planter box allows yu to move the box from location to location, and in which plants can be changed in a jiffy.
Construction of the planter is simple-and its design is easy to modify. Just make sure the frame is square, otherwise pieces won't fit together properly. Spend a little extra time making the bevel and miter cuts so they line up flush. The height of the shelf depends on the size of the pot you are putting in the planter. Situate the shelf so that the top of the pot is level or a little below the top rim of the planter.
Tools you will need to build the planter box:
Table saw
Tape measure
Circular saw
Bar clamps
Framing Square
Combination Square
3/8 inch drill and bits
Hammer
Screwdriver
Safety goggles
Materials needed are:
1x4's
1x6's
2x2's
2x4's
Galvanized 6d (2 inch) finishing nails
No. 8 2 inch and 3 inch deck screws
This planter box is built around a series of frames screwed together, then covered with siding, which is nailed in place, or you can choose to use either screws or nails throughout. Decorative trim is added to the top and side. You can position the shelf at a height best suited to your plant.
For the frames, cut 2x2 uprights and 2x4 crosspieces on a table saw. Begin by marking the length on the pieces. Line up the cutting mark with the blade and rest the stock against the miter gauge, and then make the cut.
Assemble a pair of frames, each using two uprights and two crosspieces. Clamp the frame parts together. Square with a framing square. Drill pilot holes at each corner with a combination countersink bit, which prevents splitting by drilling a hole that matches the screw. Drive in No. 8 3 inch deck screws. Clamp the last four crosspieces between the assembled frames. Measure diagonally from corner to corner to check to see if the planter box is square. Clamp across the diagonal until the distances are equal. Drill pilot holes with a countersink bit and screw into the crosspieces.
Cut the 1x4 siding to length. For the corner pieces, cut 45 degree bevels by tilting the saw blade to that angle and ripping the pieces to width. Make the cut with a push stick to keep your fingers well clear of the blade.
Tilt the frame on its side. Nail the corner siding to the frame flush with the top and bottom. Then nail the corner siding pieces to each other with galvanized 6d (2 inch) finishing nails.
Measure the distance between the corner siding pieces and divide by four to find the final width of the four siding pieces that will fill in the gap. Nail or screw the pieces in place, working from each end toward the center. Cut the 1x6 base trim and the top trim 1 inch longer than final size. Hold each piece in place against the frame and mark the length. Then bevel the top edge of the base trim at 45 degrees. Nail the pieces in place with finishing nails. Measure along the top trim to determine the length of the 1x4 cap pieces. Bevel the outside edges at 45 degrees, then miter cut, also at 45 degrees, to final length.
Nail the cap pieces over the top trim with finishing nails. Cut the 2x2 shelf cleats and shelf boards to length. Choose a shelf location based on the size of the plant. Screw the cleats 3/4 inches below that point. Drill pilot holes through the boards into the uprights. Drive in No.8 3 inch deck screws. Rest the 1x6 shelf boards on the cleats. Don't bother nailing them to the cleats, the weight of the plant pot will hold them in place.
Construction of the planter is simple-and its design is easy to modify. Just make sure the frame is square, otherwise pieces won't fit together properly. Spend a little extra time making the bevel and miter cuts so they line up flush. The height of the shelf depends on the size of the pot you are putting in the planter. Situate the shelf so that the top of the pot is level or a little below the top rim of the planter.
Tools you will need to build the planter box:
Table saw
Tape measure
Circular saw
Bar clamps
Framing Square
Combination Square
3/8 inch drill and bits
Hammer
Screwdriver
Safety goggles
Materials needed are:
1x4's
1x6's
2x2's
2x4's
Galvanized 6d (2 inch) finishing nails
No. 8 2 inch and 3 inch deck screws
This planter box is built around a series of frames screwed together, then covered with siding, which is nailed in place, or you can choose to use either screws or nails throughout. Decorative trim is added to the top and side. You can position the shelf at a height best suited to your plant.
For the frames, cut 2x2 uprights and 2x4 crosspieces on a table saw. Begin by marking the length on the pieces. Line up the cutting mark with the blade and rest the stock against the miter gauge, and then make the cut.
Assemble a pair of frames, each using two uprights and two crosspieces. Clamp the frame parts together. Square with a framing square. Drill pilot holes at each corner with a combination countersink bit, which prevents splitting by drilling a hole that matches the screw. Drive in No. 8 3 inch deck screws. Clamp the last four crosspieces between the assembled frames. Measure diagonally from corner to corner to check to see if the planter box is square. Clamp across the diagonal until the distances are equal. Drill pilot holes with a countersink bit and screw into the crosspieces.
Cut the 1x4 siding to length. For the corner pieces, cut 45 degree bevels by tilting the saw blade to that angle and ripping the pieces to width. Make the cut with a push stick to keep your fingers well clear of the blade.
Tilt the frame on its side. Nail the corner siding to the frame flush with the top and bottom. Then nail the corner siding pieces to each other with galvanized 6d (2 inch) finishing nails.
Measure the distance between the corner siding pieces and divide by four to find the final width of the four siding pieces that will fill in the gap. Nail or screw the pieces in place, working from each end toward the center. Cut the 1x6 base trim and the top trim 1 inch longer than final size. Hold each piece in place against the frame and mark the length. Then bevel the top edge of the base trim at 45 degrees. Nail the pieces in place with finishing nails. Measure along the top trim to determine the length of the 1x4 cap pieces. Bevel the outside edges at 45 degrees, then miter cut, also at 45 degrees, to final length.
Nail the cap pieces over the top trim with finishing nails. Cut the 2x2 shelf cleats and shelf boards to length. Choose a shelf location based on the size of the plant. Screw the cleats 3/4 inches below that point. Drill pilot holes through the boards into the uprights. Drive in No.8 3 inch deck screws. Rest the 1x6 shelf boards on the cleats. Don't bother nailing them to the cleats, the weight of the plant pot will hold them in place.
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