How To Install Outside Entries For Finished Basements

Finished basements are wonderful. In the sorry event that you live in a house that does not have an outside basement entrance, you can add the entry yourself. The job can be a tricky one, however. You have to punch through the foundation wall and dig out vast amounts of dirt. Each shovelful doesn't weigh very much but it takes an unbelievable number to fill a wheelbarrow. And the wheelbarrow loads that have to be removed? One shudders to tally.

So use a modicum of sense. Have a builder or architect - who's seen finished basements with outside basement entrances before - check over the foundation before you start chipping out blocks. Unless family finances are scraping bottom, hire out the excavation work. A man seated comfortably on a back hoe can do the job in a couple of hours. If not, buy a case of beer, make sandwiches and call up every friend you ever had. If they have finished basements, they will understand your plight.

Excavate an area about 5 ft. square to expose the foundation wall where the doorway will be placed. (assuming your basement is one of the average finished basements which is about six to nine steps below ground.) Play it safe and include a 45-degree slope around the sides to prevent a cave-in.

With a sledge hammer and a couple of mason's chisels, break through the basement wall. If you have the foresight to do this job from the inside, you can keep a firm footing instead of sloshing about in the muck outside, which is typical for all finished basements.

Undoubtedly you will be using one of those slanting hatchway doors to close off the opening. Check through the manufacturer's literature and get the exact dimensions. That hole you dug in the ground has to be lined with masonry block to make an extension of the foundation. Exact size here depends upon the door frame size; finished basements vary on this point so it is hard to give exact advice without seeing your specific case.

Build a rough wood form at the bottom of your pit and pour concrete footings. Then build up the wall, staggering the joints of the blocks for extra strength. Bond carefully where the new block meets the old house foundation. Carefully waterproof the outside of the masonry using the black, gucky foundation coating made for this purpose. If you have a severe water problem in the basement, which is not beyond possibility for any of the existing finished basements I know, apply a membrane of a number of layers of saturated asphalt paper and mastic. You can then shovel the dirt back against the new foundation walls.

Installing the hatchway door itself only takes about four hours in my experience with finished basements. If you have a set of exterior basement steps covered by a battered old wooden cover you might start listening at this point. The procedure, after you have ripped away the old mess, is the same.

Open up the package of the unit and assemble the frame. The gadget has to fit firmly against the side of the house, so position the frame on top of the masonry and mark where it meets the siding. Cut out the clapboard or shingles. You don't have to worry with this step if you have a masonry house; for some finished basements you don't need to worry about it. Attach the doors to the frame and joggle it slightly to make sure it's square and that the doors line up properly.

Very carefully, so you don't shift position of the frame, remove the doors. You'll notice a few holes in the bottom of the frame. Mark the position of these on the masonry underneath. Slide away the frame and drill holes in the masonry to take expanding plugs. Seat the lead plugs, replace the frame and tighten it down. Put back the doors and install any miscellaneous hardware. Finally, calk the framework to make it weather-tight and replace any needed house siding.

With the addition of some steps if needed, you now have the entry to your basement and you can compete with the best finished basements that have an outside entry!