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Refinishing Hardwood Floors

The best way to make your wood floors look as rich and as beautiful as possible is to refinish them. Buffing and waxing wood flooring will make them shiny, but they don't compare to the effects that refinishing will provide.

The next question you want to ask yourself - and this is a big question - is whether or not you want to do them yourself. The reason that this is such a big question to consider is because refinishing wood floor is a big project. It is hard work and requires special equipment, though the equipment is usually easy to rent.

Step 1: Determine if Refinishing Is Best for Your Floor

Refinishing brings out the natural beauty of the wood and adds richness to your floor, and because of this it can raise the value of your home, but not all floors need to be completely refinished, and some need more than just refinishing.

Do You Need to Refurbish Your Hardwood Floor Instead?

If your floor only has shallow surface scratches, then it probably only needs to be refurbished - this is where flaws are repaired and then one coat of finish is applied. If you only have shallow scratches and holes in the wood, then it's recommended that you refurnish instead of refinishing, because each time you sand your wood floor, it becomes a little thinner, so refinishing can only be done a certain number of times before the floor will need to be replaced completely.

Does Your Floor or Do Some Floor Boards Need Replacing?

On the other hand, if some of your floorboards are very warped, saggy, or spongy, then you probably need to replace those boards completely.

Note: water is one of the biggest enemies of wood floors, so to help avoid warped and buckled floorboards, try to keep moisture away from your floors. This is why wood flooring is not recommended for bathrooms and kitchens. If you spill liquids on your flooring, simply wipe it clean as quickly as possible.

Remember, wood flooring can only be refinished so many times, so check the edges to make sure your floor is thick enough to withstand refinishing. If not, consider refurbishing your hardwood floor instead.

Note: Maple flooring can be especially difficult to sand and finish well, so if you have these floors you might seriously want to consider hiring a professional.

If you have decided that you will go ahead with refinishing your floor yourself, then here's what's involved - basically you will sand your floor and then apply finish, for a detailed step-by-step guide, proceed with the following.

Step 2: Fill in the Gaps before you Sand

Cracks and gaps in hardwood flooring need to be filled before you begin sanding, though you don't necessarily need to fill in every crack since they do allow the floorboards to expand and contract during different seasons. Filling in the gaps on the ends of the planks is a good idea since the length of wood planks doesn't expand much. Which other gaps you want to fill is up to you.

Step 3: Getting the Equipment and Supplies

There are certain items you will need for the job, and these can be found at most hardware stores for sale and/or rent:

  • Safety goggles, dust masks, and ear protection
  • Drum sander
  • Orbital/palm sander
  • Edge sander
  • Sand paper for sanders
  • Buffer
  • Hammer to sink nails
  • Diagonal pliers to pull out any staples
  • Stain
  • Rags
  • Putty knife and scraper
  • Shop vacuum
  • Natural bristle brush
  • Foam applicator
  • Kneepads highly recommended!

Step 4: Getting Prepared

The nest thing you'll need to do is get your floor ready for serious business! First, clear you floor and sweep it thoroughly. Then remove any carpet staples that might be in the flooring - you can do this easily with a pair of diagonal pliers. Then, use a hammer to sink any nails, be sure to sink them well to avoid damaging the machinery you will be using. Then walk over the floor to do a last check for nails and cracks.

Finally, close up the room you are working in so that dust does not spread throughout the house. You can do this by placing plastic over doorways and placing towels over vents and under doors.

Step 5: Sanding

This is where all of that protective gear comes in - get your goggles, ear protectors, and dusk masks on, ladies and gentlemen, and get ready to sand!

You will need to go and rent a drum sander, and when you rent it, be sure to get the details on how to operate your particular machine. As you will find out, drum sanders can be quite large and cumbersome, and this is probably the number one reason why people have a professional refinish their floors - transporting it alone can be a hassle.

Once you have your sander, make sure the sander is fit with course sandpaper and begin sanding in an area that's not usually exposed much - just in case. When you turn the sander on, have it above the floor, and then slowly ease it onto the wood floor.

If the floors are in good condition, you'll want to sand with the wood grain, however, if they are warped, then sand against the grain of the wood. Carefully walk the sander forward then back, but don't let the sander hover over one spot too long or it will make a swirl or circle in your floor. Use a sand edger in those spots that the drum sander can't get to.

Check for any cracks that might need filling or nail heads that may be sticking up and sink them. It is best to do this between all sandings.

Next, switch the sandpaper on the drum sander to medium grit, and go over the floor in the same way you did before.

And finally, replace the sandpaper with very fine grit sandpaper and go over the floor once again. When you're all done using the drum sander, take the orbital/palm sander and smooth around the edges.

Step 6: Cleaning

It may seem like the hardest part is over, but now it's time to clean up the area - the whole area - this includes the ceiling and walls - and whatever you do, do not use moisture on the newly sanded floor, instead, vacuum and then sweep up the dust. (You remember wood flooring's worst enemy - right?)

Step 7: Buffing

Next you will use a buffer; this is another piece of machinery that you will probably want to rent. Place a fine screen on the buffer, a screen of about 100-120 grit, and then carefully go over your floor with it.

Step 8: Staining

Before you start to stain your floor, make sure you've taken some important precautions. First, make sure the room is well-ventilated - open windows and turn on fans if possible - because the fumes can be dangerous. Also, make sure that there are no fires nearby - put out cigarettes and have a look around the area for any other possible fire sources, since stain is highly flammable.

There are different brands and types of stains out there - so whatever kind you get, be sure to follow its specific directions. Currently, oil based stains are considered the best quality.

Got your kneepads on? You're ready to start staining. It's recommended that you use a rag to apply the stain, wiping off and excess and replacing rags frequently. Once you've finished staining the floor, leave it to dry until the next day.

Step 9: Finishing

These days, surface finishes are preferred over wax finishes, since they are often easier to maintain and more durable than penetrating wax finish. Also, water-based finishes are also more durable and recommended over oil-based finish - though in the end it's completely up to you which type of finish you use.

Take your bristle brush or foam applicator and rinse it well to clear out any loose fibers. Then use it to apply finish to the corners, making sure that it's all smooth and even, with no bumps or lumps. Now take the foam applicator and smooth out any brush marks you may have left behind.

Next, start on the floor in the same way, going with the grain of the wood. It's recommended that you do it in small areas at a time. When finished, allow 24 hours for the floor to dry.

After you've applied the first coat, check for any raised grains in the wood, and be sure to sand or buff them before proceeding with the last coat.

If you did need to sand or buff, then clean the floor with a damp cloth, but also try to stay off the floor as much as possible at this point.

Finally, apply your last coat and allow another 24 hours for drying time - once it is all dried and cured, you should have a lustrous new wood floor!

Be sure to read instructions on all products you get, as they can vary widely, and be sure to follow all recommended safety precautions for a hefty job like this.

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